Monday, April 29, 2013

Kick Off at Lake Morena

Day 12 to 14

Started off the day with bacon. What better way is there. Karen served from the camper van and then we made our way to kick off, back South to Lake Morena. Felt weird to be driving back the way we walked.
It was a great break to not walk for a while and let things heal. We met new and previously met hikers, shared meals, hiker movies and lectures and had an overall lovely time.
Karen's campervan got a lot of attention so we met a lot of people who just wanted to have a look inside or talk engine size and 'synchro', whatever that is.
T and I had a brilliant yoga class down by the lake in the morning. Sun was hot but the grass was cool and the lake and huge boulders made a great backdrop.









Saturday, April 27, 2013

Mile 101-110 Barrel Springs to Warner Springs


Day 11
Got up at 4am.

That needed its own paragraph.
On the trail by 5.10am. Which happened to be a bit early since it was still dark and we inched along like slugs till daybreak. It was only 8 miles down a gentle slope to Warner Springs. Beautiful rolling pastoral scenes, amazing old oak trees, artfully placed giant boulders, bubbling streams, and poison oak.

Arrived at Warner Community Centre at around 9am in time for the PCT hikers $5 breakfast. The community has also set up a laundry, shower and computer services.

Actually I'm missing out the bit where I went 100 yds off the trail to take a picture of an old car, then some blue jays and ASSumed Tracy would continue and we'd meet at the beginning of the road not too far away. Thing is she wasn't there, I shouted her name loudly but not too desperately since I was next to a fire station and didn't want them involved at this stage. I heard nothing so I quickly power walked across the road to see if she'd gone on to the community centre. Not there, so I dumped my pack and ran back to the trail. I checked under the bridge and was relieved not to see her dead body. I started running back along the trail and then finally I heard my name being called with the kind of passion I've only ever heard in Portuguese fado songs. We sonically located each other.
We now have a new rule. If I ever go off the trail, I need to come back on the trail at that SAME point. Tracy will be waiting there, on that VERY spot. She won't have moved. She won't have wandered off to file her nails. We have to stay within visual range at ALL TIMES.

The community centre was full and we breakfasted with other hikers. Lots of hikers have been given or have adopted trail names. It's a thru hiker thing. We thought about Mingin' and Manky but didn't want to have to explain these Scottish words for dirty every time. I gave Tracy the name Running Commentary for obvious reasons. However since the beginning of the trail she hasn't said much. She and Beth gave me the name Deer Crossing after the prancing warning signs you see on the highway. So far we have been going with just Ingrid and Tracy.

Anyhow talked with a guy named Drama Queen at breakfast and he said he'd hiked with the Adonis guy I mentioned yesterday. His trail name is ...Smooth Operator.

Tracy's mom, Karen had driven half the country to meet us at the community centre and after our laundry was done we drove off to a nice RV park near Julien. According to the GPS and google maps our destination was a dirt bank at the side of the road. Fortunately we weren't deceived by this and finally found the site and set up camp. We then took a quick ride into Julien to pick up some free pie for PCT hikers at Mom's pie shop (the four berry pie was delish) and bought pork and veggies for dinner.





Thursday, April 25, 2013

Mile 91 - 101 Third Gate to Barrel Springs

Day 10
Decided not to go any further yesterday just to avoid the crowds. We have gone from seeing no one on the trail to hangin with probably about 20 other hikers yesterday at the third gate water supply area.

Hikers were lying under any available tree or tarp that gave shade. At about 6pm when it was getting cool enough to hike again, a group of 5 or so had gathered on the trail. They were getting ready to do a bit of night hiking. Tracy had joined them to wish them well and I hovered in the background. And then, as if in slow motion, all sound stopped and we all parted to make way for this vision bounding along the trail. At first I was slightly blinded by the whiteness of his teeth and made dizzy by the shimmering of his blond curls. I therefore lowered my eyes only to take in the Hawaiian shirt, running shorts (no one is hiking in shorts) and the solid mahogany calves. He could only be from California. He stopped to address us, well the guys in the group at least, adjusting the army duffle bag on his shoulder (no ultra lite back pack for him). "Hey guys. So I just started to cruise up here like at 2:30pm (no one hikes then if they can avoid it, too hot)"
Crowd: Cool! Sweet!
"Yeah so I was like at Scissors crossing and hanging with like Lion King"
Crowd: Woah! Sweet!
"Yeah so I'm like gonna get some H2o and then like I am up for a little moonlight hiking!
Crowd: Cool! Sweet! Me too!
"Sweet"
He grinned, the world momentarily turned white and then he was gone.

And then we had a delicious meal of turkey Alfredo.

This morning we got on the trail at 6am, arrived at Barrel Springs at 11am and hung out all day. Only one other couple staying here tonight, Brett and Erin from Oakland. Brett's a biologist so I have been learning a lot about local flora and fauna. Off to play cards with them. Night night.

We have walked 100 miles. Yeee haaa!

P.S. Had first rattlesnake encounter! No one died.

Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Mile 77 - 91 Yolanda's House to Third Gate water supply


Day 9
Got on the trail at 5:30am. The moon is 2/3 full, 1/3 empty ;), so it was easy to see. Oh so cool out if the sun, like 'normal' hiking. It was great being up so early and seeing the pink in the mountains and in the few clouds above. We walked straight up the 2-3 mile incline with ease. Tracy and I were both chattering, her grim silence a thing of the past. The 2 days rest have really paid off. I think we are beginning to find our trail legs. We walked 14 miles and reached the water cache by 11:45am. We had lunch and have been lying in the shade since. It's now almost 4pm. We need to decide if we want to camp here tonight or push on a few more miles so that tomorrow is easier. Our destination is Warner Springs where T's mom will meet us to take us to Kick Off. This is a big event for all thru hikers. A three day gathering with food, talks, thru hiking stars etc.
xx



Mile 77 Night at Yolanda's

Day 8
Today we woke up leisurely in our lovely cabin. Tracy sauntered over to our refrigerator several times to view our food in its cool environment. I made many short trips to our private bathroom, admiring the handsome wooden floors on the way. Sleeping in one's own filth gives one an appreciation for things we usually take for granted.
We thought we might take a trip in to Julian on this 'day off' to get cash at the ATM, buy Aleve for our knees etc. However, we decided after watching other hikers unsuccessfully stand in the sun for at least an hour that we would instead sit at the picnic tables on the front porch of the Stagecoach Trails Inn Store.

What a hub of activity! We exchanged life and travel stories with Yolanda, the Swiss woman running the store and her friend Elaine. Met more hikers, including Craig from Portland, and some of the locals. We also witnessed a young couple pull up in a car. The young woman was clearly unhappy and while her boyfriend was in the store she explained they hadn't seen anything and that if he had only LISTENED they wouldn't have done the 3 hour U turn that had landed them here...
It was while talking to Craig, who'd hurt his ankle that I looked down at my own and discovered my right ankle bones were nowhere to be seen, but buried in puffy flesh. When did that happen? My Prima Donna knees had stolen the show while right ankle had been nervously waiting in the wings. I'm a bit worried about what our hike tomorrow will do to it.
After Yolanda's shift at the store she drove us back to her home where she had offered us a bed for the night and a ride to the trailhead in the morning at 5 am! Her house is amazing. She is an artist who does everything. She makes jewelry, stained glass, mosaic, oil paintings, metal work, wood work and has a collection of interesting antiques. And everything comes together in her art space/home.
She shared more about her interesting life before we went early to bed.

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Mile 77 Stagecoach Trails RV park

Day 7
Today we woke up after a very comfortable night in our tent. Our sleeping bags are too warm now so we just lie directly on our mats and use them as quilts. It was great getting out of our cleanish sleepwear and getting into cleanish clothes with our cleanish bodies.
We decided to have a zero day, ie a no hiking day, to recover before the next horrible south facing climb. We upgraded to a really nice cabin and chilled.


Mile 61.5 - 77 Meadow near Mason Valley to Stagecoach Trails RV parkand Resort

Day 6
Got the earliest departure yet. On the trail at 6:45am. At 8:30am the heat was incredible. We're talking Lawrence of Arabia meets that-film-where-Kirsten-Scott-Thomas-dies-in-the-desert kind of hot. Blisters, ball of foot pain, heat rashes, and shoulder spasms now seem like mere trifles now that frying up like a bacon rasher and perishing is a real possibility.

Fortunately we met a local woman on the trail who told us about a giant rock where we could rest for a while in the shade. Since I didn't think we'd be meeting anyone on the trail, I was wearing my tinted glasses that make me look like I operate in the black market selling puppy fur. Naturally we ran into lots of people today.

We met our first dudes under the big shady rock. Anson is a handsome chappie who is carrying a 6 foot pine staff along the trail with him. Jesse has a fantastic red pirates beard and jazzy leggings. They are friends who met in Iraq during their army service. We spent a really nice hour and a half chatting before setting of into the heat again.

By the time we had reached the San Felipe Valley we were down to our last drops of water and energy. We had met a park ranger from South Lake Tahoe earlier in the day who had planted the seed " resort, swimming pool, cabin, 3 miles hitch from Scissors Crossing, that's where I'd go!"

I wasn't sure if this were some kind of trail joke. Anyhow we ended up taking a wrong turn, but got a half mile ride to the highway and from there started to walk. Every time we heard a car, Tracy would hold out her thumb and I would try to look as sweet and innocent as I could in my seedy glasses. Nothin.

Then we arrived at a Fire station just as a fireman was leaving in his truck. He asked if we were okay and if we needed water to be sure to go in and ask for some. So we got one of our water bladders filled and talked to a few of the firemen. They said it was only about a mile to the resort.
We still couldn't quite face the next mile, so we sat under the shade of a tree in front of the small community centre next to the fire station to cool down. A few minutes later a guy walks along the road and says hello. Tracy tells him we want a ride to the resort. He says that if we'd like to attend his bible reading he could give us a ride afterwards at 8pm. We politely decline his offer. Two minutes later a female voice from the community centre hollers "wanna cup of coffee?" So sweet! Tracy however declines, and then I know there's definitely something wrong with her. She's normally all about coffee. She's REALLY exhausted. Not long after that, the original fireman returns and offers to take us to the resort! Saviour!

They had no cabins left so we camped but they had hot showers and a laundry. It took Ages to scrub off all the dirt and we had to wear our waterproofs while we waited for our clothes. However there was air conditioning and a place to put our feet up. It was the best night I spent in a laundromat EVER!

Friday, April 19, 2013

Mile 47.5 - 61.5 Bahr Shrine Camp to Meadow near Mason Valley

Day 5
This is going to be brief.
Walked constantly from 8am to 6:30pm, minus a few snack and photo op breaks. Had quick lunch in a very picturesque boulder field overlooking the vast sweep of the Anza Borrega Desert. Finally, the reason we're doing this, stunning views. Met no one on trail.

Knees swelled to size of watermelons. Stopped at horse trough to filter water. Questioning if "this is for us"

Camped in lovely meadow off trail.

Mile 43 - 47.5 Mount Laguna to Bahr Shrine Camp

Day 4
It was great to wake up this morning in our cabin. We heard Mike and Jill getting up for an early start which made lying in all the more luxurious.

Check out was at noon and we used all this time well. Tracy took another hot shower and did laundry. I cut off my fringe with the little scissors on my penknife, put various creams and tinctures on different aching body parts, then reorganized our packs better. There was a lot of ziplock action. I also got rid of little things like clothing labels I hadn't gotten round to. Then we looked at our first resupply box and calculated how much more food we needed to pick up at the store to get us through the next 4 to 5 days. There was nothing fresh in the store so we picked up another pack of tortillas, a foil pack of tuna and Snickers/candy.

As we had planned a short day of walking we had time to saunter to the resupply store and pick up some sun gloves. We're really going to need them in the next section. Talked to Dave the owner. He has the entire contents of REI and Mountain Hardware in his store which is the size of a large walk-in closet. Also picked up some Soft feet insoles to see if those would put a little spring in our step.

The 4.5 mile walk was almost easy after our rest. But the insoles were excruciating.

We arrived at Al Bahr Shrine camp but there were notices everywhere saying it was private. We thought we might ask for water anyhow. A really nice guy said we could not only have water but were welcome to pitch our tents and make use of the Hot Showers. The lodge also had great views of the Anza Borrega desert.

List of things we thought we had lost but hadn't really, we just didn't check every single ziplock: pen and duct tape.


Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Mile 29.6 - 43 Near Kitchen Creek to Mount Laguna

Tracy woke up this morning hearing little sounds that she only heard when she put her head back on her makeshift pillow. After analyzing the toothy, scuffly movements and poking her head out the tent door to confirm, she announced we were sleeping on top of a gopher's nest.

It felt cold and the tent was covered in dew and condensation. When shaking the moisture off I realized some of it was actually ICE! Such a strange environment. Walking in sand at some points, seeing cacti and desert flowers, all the visuals say 'hot' but the breeze and the nights are icy. Today was the first cloudless day so out came my wide brimmed hat and Tracy's solar umbrella. Getting hot.

Though we didn't need to carry so much water today because there was water between stops, and we were down to just a smidgen of food, it was still very hard. My shoulders were in spasm from time to time and Tracy is walking on blisters with twinges of shin splints. We decided to do a shorter walk tomorrow.

Tonight we are at cabin in Mount Laguna, sharing with Jill and Mike, a lovely couple from Michegan. We took showers first and accidentally used up the hot water. Feel bad about it. I had to wash my feet twice to get the dirt off, and they're big feet.

Things are looking up. Today was the first day Tracy and I spoke to each other without shouting or to complain about a body part. And we get to sleep in tomorrow in our cabin!

Mile 15 - 29.6 Hauser Creek to near Kitchen Creek

Woke up after a solid 10-hour sleep. Don't have any systems down yet so it took us 1 3/4 hours to pack up our tent and hit the trail.

Didn't meet anyone on the trail today. Saw a gigantic bull, I mean really gigantic, passing a stud farm. Heard, but did not see, our first rattle snake.

Thought we were hiking faster than yesterday but we hiked about 2 miles an hour including breaks. Our plan to go slowly to build up muscle and avoid stress injuries is probably good, but I'm also aware that the more slowly we go the longer our motherloaded packs are bearing down on us. Hopefully we'll achieve the right balance soon. Other things were sore today, too many to mention.

Tracy in the one lighthearted moment early in the day, high on macademia nuts, suggested we have to do a little trumpet fanfare sound every time we bring out a penknife. Sounds fun. I wonder how long thus will remain amusing.

Thought we had found the perfect place to camp, down by a picturesque creek until a wind storm started up. Tent started blowing about in a flappy violent lifty way as we were trying to put it up so we decided to pack up and find a more protected spot.

List of things lost so far:
Seattle: camera bag and new battery
PCT: lip balm, thick sharpie pen with Duct tape wrapped round it, 2 tent pegs, unknown object that was once attached to my pack with a neon pink bit of string.

Mile 0 - 15 Campo to Hauser Creek

Day 1
I write this lying in the tent. Everything is sore. My feet are throbbing. I have large worrying lumps on my collar bones where my backpack shoulder straps 'rest'. We each carried 5.5 liters of water. Both our packs weighed about 32 lbs when we left, which is supposed to be roughly the target weight for a 'light' hiker. And yet we ache.

It is 7:30pm, we made it 15 miles to Hauser Creek (which ain't got no creek). Dinner was a success in that we used our stove for the first time and didn't set my leg on fire. We also successfully used mayonnaise as oil, steamed tortillas and melted cheese. However, the falafel mix that we so loved in testing (well actually Tracy loved it), was, how do I put it, ...boggin... After a few forced bites we decided to walk a half mile down the road, dig a hole and bury it. Not joking.

Overall though the day was very exciting. We arrived at the Mexican border with 13 other hikers who also stayed with the wonderful trail angels, Scout and Frodo. They picked us up from Lucky Seafood, the bus stop where we arrived on our Lowfarebus.com from San Francisco (Fab bus ride complete with Vietnamese sandwiches).

I digress. We left the PCT monument at the Mexican border around 8am. Some bounded ahead and others, like ourselves, hung back and took things slowly for the first day. We met a few people on the trail, a Norwegian woman, a couple from Michigan, a Seattle lady and a fellow Scot. Luckily the weather was not hot but overcast and drizzly, which made hiking cool and bearable.

Sights: desert flowers, granite rocks, lots of spider webs covered in dew.

Pics to come...tech issues. Will take pics from iPhone for blogs in future and will upload regular camera pics when get hands on computer.

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

PCT Preparation 2

Yo Ratfans.

OMG, we are finally heading south to begin our hike. After a month of preparation in Seattle, last night we picked up a rental car, packed it with resupply boxes to drop off at friends and family in California, and left this morning.



We had a butt load to do yesterday, like every day so far. As usual we were up and at 'em by 7:30 am. Here are just some of the things we had on our list:

• finalize last few resupply boxes
• meet with Megan and her new 1 year old for breakfast
• return extra seal a meal supplies to Costco
• home to meet Tracy's mom who arrived with cats in camper van for the night
• pick up ice axe leashes at REI
• go to Vietnamese lunch, short ribs and vermicelli noodles
• research and book rental cars
• collect rental car
• precision pack car with 16 remaining California resupply boxes
• hoover, clean basement, sort and pack
• take Mary's car, which she let us borrow for a month!, to car wash
• quick vietnamese Pho at place near Beth and Mary's place
• paper work, uploading of files etc
• say goodbye to computers
• final hot tub under stars
• floss, brush, bed

The best bit of the day was at the self-service car wash. We had gone there, I thought obviously, to clean the car. Within seconds of arriving Tracy was suddenly armed with the soap brush attachment and power hose. I was relegated to reading the instructions, loading the coins and "making sure the hose doesn't tangle". She acted so quickly I didn't have time to question my not-nearly-so-fun role. Just as this was beginning to sink in, Tracy's mom pops her head out the back door of the car and asks "Do you want me to stay in or get out?"  Tracy tells her to just stay in. Tracy's mom then answers "Okay, I'm just going to clip my nails"   !     I couldn't believe my ears. Anyway, we all had a good laugh about it afterwards. Now driving down to Chico (11 hour drive!) staying with Lanai, and seeing Melissa and Steph tomorrow morning before driving to San Francisco to stay with Robyn and Tony for a couple of days. Still need to buy shoes!