Mile 544-558 near Gamble Spring Canyon to Tehachapi

Walked 5 miles to the next water cache and had breakfast, our muesli and powdered milk. The water cache was supplied by two trail angels, Fred and Larry, and these guys have brought a real sense of style to the trail.  There was a flower arrangement, clear labeling, and great attention to detail, color, texture, and feng shui; this was exterior design like we haven't seen before. Chatted with Seminal and Pants on Fire. After that we walked through more wind farm areas till the highway. The four of us ended up trying to hitch at the same time. 

A woman who we'd seen at the Anderson's stopped in a red car and shouted "Hey hiker trash! Get in".  We were squeezing in when she started to drive off, before Pants on Fire had fully gotten in, his left foot still on the ground outside. She turned up the tunes and we drove at what felt like 600mph along the highway. From my vantage point all I could see was her bare feet, legs and arms. OMG was she a naturist? Glad I wasn't having to make conversation in the front seat. She was actually dressed and kindly deposited us in downtown Tehachapi. The four of ended up sharing a room at the Best Western.

Ruby, trail angel supreme, called just before T and I went for dinner. She was in the area and joined us at great BBQ joint, where I had 2 beers, half a chicken, half rack of ribs, red slaw and mac n cheese. Great to see her again. 

Went in hot tub just before dusk, and had 2 cokes. Now in front of tv with Pants, Seminal, Tracy, and Lighthouse on the floor. 

Two-shower clean, laundered, and fed. Tomorrow's an omelette and sausage day at the Western. Good times.

Mile 518- 544 Hiker Town to near Gamble Spring Canyon

Spent a lovely evening in our trailer last night eating our Japanese soba meal with seaweed. Nice for a change. This morning we got up and knocked on Sadie's door and the three of us left at 6:15am. We then walked along the 16 mile LA aqueduct. The first small part of it the water was exposed, but the remainder was closed. 

Although we had heard that this was an arduous hot and dull part of the pct, we really enjoyed it. It was nice to walk on something other than a 12 inch path. We could walk side by side. There was also a nice breeze and plenty of amazing Joshua trees and desert scapes to look at. 

After the long straight flat terrain we had a long uphill section through a giant wind farm. The wind turbines were whirring impressively. I thought this was normal but apparently the 65 mph wind was not commonplace. 

After 24 miles we reached a campsite tucked into a canyon. Tracy announced it was the "perfect spot". Windless, next to a creek, the first water source in 24 miles, and plenty of flat spots. Sadie wanted to stay. But I had only one thing on my mind. The Best Western motel in Tehachapi.

 I reasoned that the more we hiked today, the fewer miles we'd have to walk tomorrow and the sooner we could revel in the luxury of weather-proof rooms, comfy beds, hot shower, pool, hot tub, laundry .....

I "won", we hugged goodbye to Sadie and we moved on, but darkness was approaching and the wind was increasing. Every possible campsite I pointed out Tracy responded,  "are you joking", "not nearly as good as the one in the canyon", or "it's too sloped", "I preferred the one in the canyon", "Crap". 

However,  we had to choose something before it got too dark. I saw something promising off the trail down  hill a little. This spot looks good, Tracy!" I pronounced as I  stood leaning at a crafty angle which  I hoped would make the ground appear more even. "And I think we're protected from the wind down here!" I shouted in a lull between gusts. Tracy conceded. This would have to make do.

Later that night we were both woken up by the wind battering the sides of the tent and sand being flicked up in our faces because the fly had come loose. We took the fly sheet off which helped. Fortunately there was no rain. 

26 miles today. A marathon with a backpack!

Mile 507- 518 Horse Camp Canyon to Hiker Town

Yesterday evening we thought we were pretty smart, choosing a campsite based on there being no wind. The grass stood straight up, and was not bent over like in other windy spots. I did a little compass check. It was on the lee side of the hill. This did not however fully protect us as there was a bit of a windstorm with sporadic rain. 

We woke up in heavy mist and packed up our wet tent. We walked fast to keep warm and wore our rain gear for the first time. The wind was so strong at a dip between two hills, that we not only had to walk towards the left in order to keep straight, but also dig in our hiking poles and really use our leg muscles to keep upright.

We arrived at Hiker Town, a kind of hostel for hikers, at 11:30 and moved into our own private trailer. Debbie gave us a ride to the store where we picked up beer and snack food, then made us corn on the cob and a pork sandwich back at the place. I also went for a gigantic bowl of cookies and cream ice cream. 

We've heard a lot about Hiker Hunger and neither of us have really experienced it... until now, about 6 weeks from when we started. After my ice cream I had a family sized bag of chips/crisps.

Anyway, it has been nice to rest this afternoon because the next two days will involve walking along the LA aqueduct and the Mojave desert. Hoping there will be a few clouds. Tomorrow there are 24 miles to the next water source.

Mile 488-507 Sawmill Mountain to Horse Camp Canyon

It was still very windy when we all woke up at 5:30 and no one wanted to stick around for breakfast, so we hastily packed up and left. Quietly and like little drones the three of us walked for the next couple of hours until we were warm and the sun was out before stopping and  having breakfast. 

Our plan for the day was to do most of the miles between here and Hiker Town today and leave a short hike into Hiker Town tomorrow so we could fit in a 'Nero' day (half day of rest) before continuing on to Tehachapi. In the end, we walked 19 miles today with only 11 left for tomorrow.

Much of the trail today was hot and hilly. We had one big water cache at the halfway point where we met a few other hikers huddled near a cement water tank at a junction of several dirt roads. 

G.W. was there mending a large, broken, inflamed, and now infected blister. It was clear he would not be able to walk on it for a couple of days. His 'plan' was to just sit there for two days until it healed. A passerby hiker gave him some antibiotics and a pain killer earlier in the day and he said he had enough food and water.

When Tracy looked at his foot she couldn't suppress her shock at the state of this suppurating mess. While the rest of us sucked on gummi bears and munched wheat thins, our Trace went into action. Number 1, dousing his foot with her denatured alcohol that we use for fuel. Number 2, checking that there was cell phone coverage, getting his phone number, texting him and saying "Call me if you change your "plan" and need help".  Number 3, hooking his half-dead phone up to our solar panel while convincing him to call a trail angel and to rest for a few days at the Anderson's. Number 4, hailing down two leather clad dirt bike riders to establish our exact location. Though all PCTers can tell you the exact mile marker of where we are on the trail at any one minute, very few actually know where we are relative to civilization.

G.W. took Tracy's advice and called for help. Tracy then got out the map and called out routes/directions to help with his rescue. Once the call was made, I noticed from my supine position on my sleeping pad that Tracy then went up the hill to get more water at the tank after tending to a few other 'rest stop' tasks.

The trail angel, Aloha, arrived within 15 minutes. He brought a beer and a large iced bottle of orange soda. Half of the hikers had already moved on. I offered the beer to Alif and the remaining three of us took turns gulps from the soda relishing the sweet thirst quenching taste against the harsh dry surroundings.

I was concerned that Tracy wouldn't get any of this delicious treat. I look up and I see her 200 ft up at the water tank, her eyes locked on the soda bottle. I am unsure what to do. 

The trail angel took the bottle back as he knows we wont want to carry the bottle with us and doesn't want us to leave trash. I think about screaming up to her to hurry. I think about running to the trail angel's car and stalling him. GW shouts from the car "Tell Running Commentary (Tracy) thanks so much for her help!" I want to somehow extend this conversation, but I can't think of anything to say and it's too late. The half full iced soda bottle just sits in the car unclaimed.

I finally see Tracy appearing. The car pulls away. I think about running to stop it, but I am frozen with indecision. Maybe it's my Britishness but I am crap in these situations. It is clear from Tracy's face she is looking around for the soda bottle but doesn't see it. Then the three liter bladder of water she was carrying is more or less flung at me making a large gurgling sound as it makes contact. Our eyes lock in mutual understanding that a mistake was made.

Soon all trifles of missed sodas are forgotten and Sadie, Tracy and I are off in desert heat again to finish out the rest of the day and find a place that will be better protected from the winds. Later in the coziness of our tent we laugh together at what had become, 'the soda incident'.

PS We passed the 500 mile mark!!! Cue the Proclaimers song....

GW sent us a pic of him recovering! :)

Mile 478-488 The Anderson's to Sawmill Mountain

Last night we had great beef tacos supplied by the Anderson's, and hung out with Billionaire, Boyscout, Jorge, Hitch and Alif.

The Anderson's place is 2 miles from the PCT trail which means an hour of walking that doesn't count toward PCTmiles, so we decided to stay this morning for pancakes and then get a ride to the trailhead rather than get up early and walk. We don't like walking ;)

This meant waiting around until 2pm for there to be enough people going out to warrant a ride to the trail. The upside was we could enjoy Mrs Anderson's hotdogs, and a couple of beers while we waited.

On the way back to the trail we met Sadie in the van, a young girl from Nevada City, Ca. She said she was a little scared to hike the next section on her own. This ex-army guy told her that a lot of no-good happens in these here hills. The guy even went so far as to give her a giant 'don't F with me' knife to protect herself. This thing looked like something Rambo dropped. It had a bit that breaks glass and another bit that rips through seat belts. Unsure as to which was scarier, sweet and seemingly innocent blade weilding Sadie, or the baddies in the hills, I said she was welcome to hike and/or camp with us. 

We hiked ten miles in fairly hot weather. It's always hard starting to walk after a break. Sand and bushes. Lots of uphill. Foot pain for all. Decided to camp before it got dark at the top of a hill. Everything looked perfect (see panorama below). Such a lovely evening we decided to cowboy camp as it seemed like the perfect night for it. 

What started out as tranquil and delightful turned hideously windy. We had perhaps the most sleep-deprived night yet. This never ending, loud and aggressive wind came from nowhere. We managed to secure our belongings and stuff them into our bags. Sadie was not so lucky, she lost a shirt that she had hanging over a branch.

Earlier in the evening I noticed that the wind was coming from my side, making me a human wind barrier, shielding Tracy from the brunt of the battering.. I mentioned this and expected the following exchange:

Tracy: Oh, you poor lamb! I had no idea. Let me know if you get too cold and we can change places. 

Me: Oh, I wouldn't dream of it. No, I'll take it for the team. Stay cozy, my love.

Instead, the actual response I got was:

Tracy: Bummer

Mile 469-478 Spunky Canyon to The Anderson's

 Took a while to leave our campsite as everything was damp. Must be something to do with the lake nearby. Waited till the sun came up enough to dry off our tent and sleeping bags. Uneventful hike to San Francisquito Canyon Road where we got a ride immediately from a passing fireman. 

As we got out of the car, we got a round of applause from all the hikers sitting and reclining in the Anderson's front yard. Tracy bowed and I did the Queen's wave. They were all very friendly/happy/drunk/stoned. This applause and hooting goes on all day and night as new hikers arrive. We then pulled up a couple of cushions, slammed half a bottle of tequila, and smoked a couple of bowls..... Actually, what we really did was find a camp spot in the manzanita forest at the back of their home, have a shower and secure a plastic basin to hand wash some laundry. We did go to the store to pick up some lunch items and some beer. Ran into Goku, a japanese hiker whom we have been teaching English to. 

Right now we are relaxing in our tent under the manzanita trees wearing loaner Hawaiian shirts.

Mile 454-469 Agua Dulce to crest of hill near Spunky Canyon

We took our time leaving the Saufley's ranch.  Had hot chocolate,  breakfast, computer time and sorted out our food supply and maps. We headed out at 2pm. We could have opted for the 24 in 24 challenge (drinking a beer every mile to the Anderson's Trail Angel house 24 miles away in 24 hours) but decided not to. 

Instead we hiked towards the Anderson's for 15 miles with no alcohol. We had intended on going 12 miles but that campsite was next to the road. The second camp marked on the map 14 miles away was under a buzzing power line, so we stealth camped on our own at a nice sandy flat spot hidden by bushes from the trail. Great view of the full moon and layers of tinted mountains.  

Mile 444-454 Acton KOA to The Saufley's in Agua Dulce

After a nice warm sleep broken only by the bone-vibrating loudness of the occasional train horn, we made our cereal, packed up and started walking. We left at the same time as Turtle and Silver from Atlanta. They are a lovely and interesting couple and the time flew by as we walked with them all the way to our next stop, the Saufley's Trail Angel house in Agua Dulce. Bonus: We also passed by some really nice red rock formations.

 Later in the morning we arrived at the trail angel house. We had been warned that they accept no more than 50 hikers. As we had already done our laundry and weren't particularly tired, we were prepared to move on. However, there was enough space for us in cots in marquees in their back yard. Also, they were doing an REI run and I needed to try on shoes.. 

We settled in, met Billionaire and Colin (from our Wrightwood cabin and hotdog nights) Sunset, Seeds and Pins, Smiles and Slosh and lots of others we'd met before. We spent a little time with the horses and met Rafiki, a really interesting woman from Alaska who owns huskies and flies around in helicopters doing archaeological stuff for the military. The REI run was at 1pm. So 14 of us got in the van and had a day trip. First, to REI where Tracy bought a pair of shoes and I of course had trouble getting my size in any shoe I liked. I finally narrowed it down so that I was pretty confident that if I ordered a certain shoe online it will probably fit.. From REI we stopped off at In n Out, a well known great burger joint. I took advice from Boyscout and Billionaire and ordered the "Double Double, animal style", with side of fries and strawberry milkshake. Was not disappointed. This was a "tight ass" choice.

Came back and got on the computers for a while. Was able to finally upload pics. Check out two new albums. Looking forward to getting my new camera. Hung out with cool kids Seeds, Pins and Sunset at the tech table. Another hot shower. Thinking we'll leave tomorrow afternoon so we can fit in a cycle to the pastry shop. Naughty!