Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Mile 1535-1555 White Ridge to ridge near Cory Peak

Took first break at 8 miles in, next to a small creek. Met Crawdad (previously known as Dirt Bag for not showering from Wrightwood to South Lake Tahoe. He tried to engage hikers in a competition to see who could make it to Canada without showering. He laughed as he told us he got no takers). We sat upwind from him and had a lovely chat. ;)

The views were again interesting, it's nice to be walking along ridges. This is after all the Pacific Crest trail. We thought we'd take a nice long lunch at the 17 mile mark next to a creek. The bees/wasps thought otherwise. We were there only long enough to remove shoes n socks, wash feet, make salami cheese wraps while squealing about the bees, grab some water, then leave. One of us must have dropped a bit of salami in our haste to leave. See pic below of carnivorous bees tucking in. 

During this far-from-restful lunch we briefly met Wagon Wheel and Sting. Sting had been given this trail name only half an hour earlier, when she accidentally peed on a bees nest and got 9 bites. 

The next water source after this was 10 miles away. We decided to take it easy and dry camp, taking 4 liters of water with us, for another 3 miles and have an early evening for a change, stopping at 4:30pm. 

We spotted a camp spot on the edge of a ridge. Perfect. Tracy wanted to cowboy camp. I relented. Then we set up, got the ground sheet and sleeping bags out to enjoy the evening. We met two hikers passing by, first Skip, looking for a camp spot, and then Five Star who told us about the intense smoke all over southern Oregon, from Ashland all the way to Crater Lake. We will need get more info and do a bit of forward planning once we get to Etna on Saturday. 

So, have we been relaxing in our sleeping bags since our arrival here at 4:30pm? No. Not long after we arrived we heard thunder and could see lightning and rain streaks mark the sky across the valley. We put up the tent. We watched the clouds. We considered moving. A ridge with little tree cover is not the ideal place to be in the event of a storm. We decided to first eat the dinner we'd already cooked. Then we decided to stay. We believe the storm won't reach us, the wind direction is in our favor. The sky directly above is blue. However, the loud sound of thunder keeps us from fully relaxing and neither of us has fully unpacked, just in case.  Could be a long night. 

Newsflash: now 8pm and all signs of storm have dissipated. 😊

P.S. Amazingly, I forgot to mention in yesterday's blog entry that Tracy's crown fell out in a toffee incident during a break. If anyone knows of a good dentist in Ashland, Oregon let us know. 







Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Mile 1512-1535 Sulphur Creek to peak of White Ridge

A really nice easy day. The temperature was pleasant and we finally had some fantastic views. The only neg was the smoke from previous fires in the area made the mountain views less than clear. 

Played my newly purchased Indian flute a while walking along. Studied Spanish for a while and then forced Tracy into filming/ taking part in short videos. If we ever get fast Internet access I'll upload them. 

We are in a fabulous camp spot on a ridge with a top notch view of Mt Shasta. Had a great meal and watched a lovely sunset. With the traces of smoke everywhere we should get a great sunrise too. 

P. S. Forgot to mention the "dry lightening" which caused hundreds of spot fires in the area. We saw lots of fire crew in Mt Shasta and parts of the PCT were temporarily closed while the fires were put out. We haven't seen anything up close but tonight we can see a small fire on the horizon past Mt Shasta. 






Mile 1506-1512 Mt Shasta via Castella Highway 5 to Sulphur Creek

We had a gloriously lazy awakening at the Alpine Lodge motel this morning. We slowly showered, packed our bags and made errand calls to the post office (missing package) and Ula backpacks ( T's hip belt pocket is torn, they immediately offered to replace it and send it to the next trail town). We had reruns of the Andy Griffiths show on TV in the background. We finally emerged just in time for the eleven am check out. The manager/owner and his family and the cleaner all waved us good bye. Nice place. 

Before we tried to hitch to Castella to collect our next food package, we thought we'd go to the library to use their computers. Tracy planned to pay bills, and I hoped to be able to upload pictures to the blog. 

On the way to the library I waved on a car at a small intersection and the driver indicated that no, I should cross. Then he asked if I was a PCT hiker and did we need a ride. I said thank you but explained about the library. He gave us his number and told us to call him when we were finished!

On the way to the library Tracy "Communication" Fisher called to reconfirm the location. Five minutes later we arrived at 12:10pm to find it closed. It didn't open until 1pm. Then with a mix of horror and admiration I witnessed Ms Fisher call the librarian she'd recently spoken to and asked to get in. A minute later we had a computer each and the peaceful sanctuary of the main reading room all to ourselves.

Once our computer tasks were done, I called Mark, the trail angel and within 5 minutes he picked us up at the library and we were sailing down I-5 towards Castella. 

We picked up our Castella box, thanks Hana!, and sorted it all out on the grass in front of the general store. Got stung by a bee, these ain't no ordinary bees in these parts. These bees be aggressive. We chatted with Lt Dan, Lodgepole and her partner, a really nice couple who later offered us a ride to the trailhead with their friend. 

We walked in just 6 miles before making camp and a fire next to a creek. Happy Hour and Squeeks came along and shared our camp. Squeeks also had a bee sting!








Sunday, July 28, 2013

Mile 1437 Peavine Creek to Mt Shasta via Burney Falls

Today we got to find out what it would be like to be a Southbounder. From when we left at about 7:30 to arriving back at Burney Falls at 12:30 we ran into about 25 PCT hikers. We knew about half of them. It was fun to do once, but it would be tiring to do every day. 

Earlier we had hung out for about an hour on the trail 8 miles in near a viewing point where there had been cars parked yesterday, but no one came so we went all the way back to Burney Falls. The pluses: another root beer float and Tracy took a shower and washed her shirt in order to be hitch presentable. 

Not a great place to hitch from. We stood for a couple of hours with no success. We then made another sign because at this point we wanted to be anywhere other than in Burney Falls. Now, depending on which lane the car moved into outside the park gates, Tracy would show the appropriate cardboard destination. Finally, we got a ride from a couple going in the Mt Shasta direction, but they were only going 35 miles (not all the way, 55 miles) and we needed to hunker down in the back of their flatbed truck. We said okay. They dropped us off at a turnoff to another set of falls and, amazingly, no sooner had we said goodbye but a forestry researcher/trail angel sees our packs and cardboard signs and offers us a ride to Mt Shasta. 

We booked into the Alpine Lodge for two nights.  Just as we switched on the TV ... Boom! Thunder and lightening and monsoon like rain. The downpour was so theatrical lots of people were out on balconies to watch. We discovered Sexy Legs and other hikers are next door. We were grateful to be inside and not somewhere in the mountains or still out on the highway. 

The next day, ie today, we had great breakfast burritos and smoothies, sorted out transferring the antibiotic prescription and picked them up, did laundry and shopped for resupply food. Mt Shasta is very hippy/spiritual. A good hiker town as everything is walkable. 





Mile 1423-1437 Burney Falls to Peavine Creek

About 4 miles into the trail Tracy was coughing up green stuff and we questioned whether we needed to go back to get another 5 days of antibiotics or to soldier on. Neither of us knew what to do, so we kept on going. The day's hike was HOT, temps still in the 90s and relatively featureless. We were both feeling a little uninspired and unsure if we should be going on for another 4-5 days and possibly making Tracy's infection worse. We stopped early, 14 miles in and camped near Peavine creak. ( A stagnant pool near a forest road intersection)

Tracy left her sun glasses at our break spot but fortunately Happy Hour and Squeeks found them and returned them that evening. 

Tracy is still coughing and is exhausted. We've decided to walk back to Burney Falls tomorrow and from there hitch to a town with a pharmacy. 




Mile 1374-1423 Hat Creek to Burney Falls campground via Old Station

What social butterflies we were today. We caught up with Pint in the morning as we were packing up, said goodbye, then walked into Old Station. Outside the small store we met Werewolf and Luna whom we had met earlier in the desert and chatted for a while. We discovered that there were in fact 2 Old Stations, new Old Station and old Old Station and that old Old Station, 4 miles away, had a gas station, where, if they had it, we needed to pick up Heet for our stove. There was also a good cafe for breakfast. We started walking back to the trailhead, paralleling the road, and as a car approached we stuck out our thumbs. .. and the car stopped! Two guys on vacation, one from New Zealand, were on their way to the cafe!

The gas station did indeed sell Heet (denatured alcohol/antifreeze) and I found the last bottle tucked behind some other product. This was our lucky day as the next place we could buy it is 5 days away. 

The breakfast at JJ's was the best we've had on the trail. Everything was home made, including the sausages.  And not just maple syrup, but a selection of strawberry and blackberry purée. And, for the first time on the trail, not margarine or fake spread but 100% genuine butter. We had conversations with 7 sets of people while we were there. Friendly town. Pint arrived half way through and joined us. We also met hikers Double Sprainbow and Roid Trip. 

We learned that a hiker was taken away in an ambulance yesterday from the trail ahead. There is a heat wave going on, we're talking triple digits, and the next section is a steep climb and then goes along an exposed ridge with no water.  T still has her chest infection and woke in the middle of last night with a coughing fit. Decided we would hitch to Burney Falls, which at least sounded cooler, and continue from there. 

First though we hiked to the underground lava caves near Old Station with Pint. We went in one end and came out the other. Pint wanted to stay in there to cool down for a while so we said goodbye in the dark. 

Almost immediately, as we walked towards the highway to hitch, a woman that we had talked briefly to at the entrance offered to give us a ride. She and her son and nephew were going  fishing at Burney Falls. We had a lovely conversation in the car and she took us right into the park where she gave us a fishing hook, line and weights. We will try to use our hiking poles as rods! 

We needed to buy food for this next 4-5 day section and no sooner had we walked to the visitors section when a hiker recognized us as PCTers and asked if we needed food. She had been sent too much so handed us a bag with almost enough for 3 days. 

We then bought root beer floats and chatted to other hikers and a couple of cyclists who are cycling across the States. 

Luck seemed to be on our side all day. Except for when I thought I would take a surreptitious dip in the river under the bridge after viewing the Falls. I saw Tracy gesturing with wild eyes, pointing above me. I thought she was joking, but as I pulled  up my shorts I saw a family of five peering avidly over the side of the bridge. 

Today was so hot it was surreal. Tomorrow is supposed to be slightly cooler, but we are setting the alarm for 5am just incase. 






Mile 1356-1374 Upper Warner Campground to next to Hat Creek

An odd day. Though we woke up at 5:30 we took our time, had breakfast and coffee, and chatted with the other campers, a few section hikers and a few thru hikers, among them GW and Positive.

While most everyone opted for the Drakesbad Guest Ranch breakfast Ingrid and I headed off to the trail around 7:30 which began as a climb over looking the ranch and campgrounds below.  The morning was cool and humid from the clouds above and the rain from yesterday, but by mid-afternoon was sunny and hot again. 
We took our first break 6 miles in and cooled off at Twin Lake.  After snacks I washed my shirt, filtered water, and charged the iPhone while Ingrid tried to nap- without success as a village of large black ants found her much too interesting. 

We went through a huge burnt out section, which was at times quite beautiful. The burnt trees had orange pine needles so they looked autumnal but the trunks were burnt black and the grass was a vibrant green. 

The last part of the day was walking through what looked like a restored forest, miles of rowed trees. It was really strange as the forest looked too organized and neat. 

The best part of the day was where we camped.  We found a perfect clearing amongst the pine trees next to a large and beautiful creek.  And because it was still hot and the sun not yet behind the hills I washed my hair and took a dip while Ingrid soaked her feet. 

An hour later GW and Positive joined us with 1 Pint coming in just before heading off to bed. 





Mile 1335-1356 Highway 89 to Upper Warner Campground

After Lanai dropped us off last night it was getting late and we decided to walk only a matter of yards before setting up camp. Tracy was still under the weather but keen to keep on the trail. 

We got on the trail at 9am and within the first few minutes met a new hiker, Rhymeoseros.  The morning was very hot and muggy but we were able to cool off at lunch time in a river. We also used this time to operate on our new shoes. I'm not convinced that Vasque actually tested their Velocity 2s out on a human foot. When the shoe bends to accommodate a footstep the triple later of material (quite unnecessary) at the bottom of the tongue digs directly into the top of the toes. I developed blisters within the first hour. Just as we had finished hacking bits off our shoes, G Dub and Positive show up! Nice to see them. 

The rest of the day was "interesting":

I fell and bruised my bum on a big rock while putting on my pack talking to Rhymoseros. 

Thunder and lightening and lots of rain in the afternoon.  

We got lost three times. The signage in this area is not only misleading but in some cases Wrong. 

We saw some cool volcanic geysers and boiling hot lakes.

Tracy and I both got weird rashes on the back of our legs that we are hoping is not poison oak. (Next day's note: it was heat rash)




Mile 1197 Quincy to Chico via Belden then Chester

We all slept in then sauntered over to have the Gold Pan Motel breakfast just before it closed, at 3 minutes to 9am. Met Lionheart there with her mom and chatted about the trail. Just as we were finished Filthy and Junko walked in. Trail chit chat ensued. 

As we packed up our stuff Lionheart's mom knocked on our door to give us a gift of bananas and home made brownies. Sweet!

When Tracy woke up today she felt worse than ever. She has been coughing up green stuff for a while and now it has gone into her chest. We decided to go back with Lanai to Chico to get antibiotics and new hiking shoes. We went via Belden, where we'll be getting back on the trail,  just to take a look. 

It's a tiny "town" and it's having a rave party this weekend. Trippy! Lots of interesting semi-clad ravers on drugs, like, for sure. We spotted a few PCT hikers walking through the crowd looking perplexed. There is a small store there where hikers can resupply with junk food. 

In Chico we were both able to buy trail shoes we wanted at a Sport store and, in the very same mall, we got a shake, ice-cream, picked up Tracy's antibiotics and got my haircut. My haircut only cost 15 dollars. It is an inch longer on one side than the other. However, I've noticed that if I continuously hold my head at a quizzical angle the difference is almost imperceptible. 

It was Hot in Chico so we spent time at the pool at Lanai's moms place. Later went out for sushi  which was both fun and natsukashi (nostalgic) since it was in Japan I first met Tracy and Lanai. 

The next day was more errand driven. We had to sort out our food and resupply box delivery dates for the next several weeks. As Tracy is still breathing with half a lung I didn't think it was a good idea to start with the massive climb out of Belden. We decided to get on the trail near the small town of Chester instead. Lanai kindly took us to the trail head that evening after a drink and a bite to eat in Chester. 





Sunday, July 21, 2013

Mile 1197 Sierra City to Quincy

Spent a lovely day with Lanai. We passed through Graeagle where we stopped to look round the craft fair. I bought an Indian flute to play on the trail. It sounds just as irritating as a recorder but is lighter in weight.  Drove to Quincy and booked into the Gold Pan Motel then had a mosey round town. Popped into "Hair It Is" but they had no walk in appointments. Also looked for hiking shoes but they didn't have the right size, so we'll both order on line tomorrow. Picked up earphones at Right Aid for my iPhone as I lost my last pair on the trail. Errands! 
Picked up some yummy food at the health food store for a picnic and drove a couple of miles to a great swimming hole. Lanai read from a book she's reading and then we listened to a podcast. There was a wire rope strung across the river which was great for monkey climbing and then dropping in. We had the place to ourselves. It was very hot today but very relaxing. 
We picked up take away Mexican food and then watched a series of great HBO movies. Aaaah. 





Friday, July 19, 2013

Mile 1197 Sierra City

Breakfast at the inn followed by errands. A box of special sealed bags for our food never arrived so we had to go to the 
post office and sort stuff out to forward it when it shows up. 
Lanai arrived early in the afternoon and we showed her around and hung out with the other hikers for a while. Then we went off for a swim in the river. After a relaxing few hours we said goodbye to Cherub who is continuing on the trail today. 

My hair has been getting in my eyes so I recently  attacked my fringe with my penknife but it's now time for a professional. I asked around for a hair stylist. I was told to see Cheryl at bar at the end of town. 
Lanai, Tracy and I went to check it out.  Two "Salty Dogs" (grapefruit cocktails) later we were invited for carne tacos by some really nice locals. Cheryl, doesn't get back to town till late tomorrow, so no hair action.  We decline the kind invitation and eat at The Buckhorn Inn. 

We were settling down in our tent tonight just as it got dark and I was about to begin the blog when Tracy calls out in alarm "OMG Ingrid, look away! Get down." I knew it was something serious and I watched her flatten into the ground and bury her head in her hands. I imagined a machine gun killer and wondered how the millimeter thick tent nylon would protect us. Then she shouts "Bear!" I quickly looked up to see this huge animal lumbering off into the dark. It was only a few feet from our tent when Tracy saw it. If only she had said the word "Bear" before "look away" and "get down" I might have gotten a photo. I am glad she shouted something though to frighten it off.